Not sure what you mean by "color grade." If you mean, post process enhance, then the answer yes and no. I used the Vivid setting in the camera, turned down brightness just a tiny bit and contrast up just a tiny bit. White balance is as-is out of the camera.

By the way, your blog and website have been fantastic in helping me get on my feet with this camera and HDV editing. Please keep up the good work. This is just my 2nd video and I didn't put much effort into the editing admittedly. :>)

Thanks for the kind words Bill. Here are some examples of color grading (follow the links for more) eugenia.gnomefiles.org/2007/11/13/how-to-color-grade/

The advantage of color grading in post processing rather than in-camera is that you can boost certain colors/areas of the image that it's not possible with the in-camera settings. More over, the "vivid" setting on the camera does not help color grading on the NLE, because the image is already over-saturated so color plugins can't work well when there's too much saturation. The best mode for post processing color grading is the "cinemode", which creates by default a dull image. This dull image fairs better with color plugins.

Here's an example of Magic Bullet's No85 filter on a frame of your footage: eugenia.gnomefiles.org/images/bill.jpg Colors would be more accurate if this was shot on cinemode or with a low saturation setting btw.

A bit more feedback, this time about editing, I would cut shorter some of the scenes. No more than 10-15 seconds each. Also, if a scene is static for a long time and then it suddenly zooms out, it looks weird because the viewer expects the scene to remain as static. :)

24p video is for music video clips and movies, not for nature, sports and every day stuff. Removing pulldown is a hassle too. If you only going to shoot normal videos and nature stuff, stay with the default 60i...