
Canon XH-A1 - Time Remapping - Slow Motion
2 years ago
Added: 05 February 2008
Hey everyone. This video just tests how I can take footage with the Canon XH-A1, import and time-remap it in After Effects, and edit it in Premiere Pro. Hope you like!
Process: The video footage was shot in 50i, then imported into After Effects so that the upper and lower fields of the interlaced footage could be seperated to become individual, whole frames. The footage was then time-remapped with a motion detector called 'Pixel Motion' in After Effects. The footage was exported and edited in Premiere Pro, with the audio edited in Audition. The footage has remained in HD every step of the editing process, until it was exported for YouTube and Vimeo.
A flaw that time-remapping has is the occasional 'ghosting' that can appear, as seen around my arms. This is caused by fast movement which the 'Pixel Motion' detector cannot compensate 'intermediate frames' for, and tends to 'frame blend' sections of the image for those instances.
Hey everyone. This video just tests how I can take footage with the Canon XH-A1, import and time-remap it in After Effects, and edit it in Premiere Pro. Hope you like!
Process: The video footage was shot in 50i, then imported into After Effects so that the upper and lower fields of the interlaced footage could be seperated to become individual, whole frames. The footage was then time-remapped with a motion detector called 'Pixel Motion' in After Effects. The footage was exported and edited in Premiere Pro, with the audio edited in Audition. The footage has remained in HD every step of the editing process, until it was exported for YouTube and Vimeo.
A flaw that time-remapping has is the occasional 'ghosting' that can appear, as seen around my arms. This is caused by fast movement which the 'Pixel Motion' detector cannot compensate 'intermediate frames' for, and tends to 'frame blend' sections of the image for those instances.
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My question is what process did you go through to deinterlace the frames to make them whole. I'm just having trouble getting mine as clean as yours. Thanks - Matt
I used Adobe's "After Effects" programme to create whole-frames. If you're familiar with After Effects - right-click your video file in your project >> go "Interpret Footage" >> "Main" >> and make sure "Upper Field First" is selected under "Fields and Pulldown".
From there you can make your video speed 50% of realtime, making one whole frame appear every 1/30th of a second. Your resulting video is 1/2-speed, and deinterlaced. I'm not exactly sure how things go with the NTSC format when it comes to time-remapping or deinterlacing, but that would be the way I'd deinterlace NTSC footage.
Hope it helps!
- Andrew
vimeo.com/970482
Could you anybody help me?
awesome slowmotion.
And nice ending! :)
I'll try to do it with my XH A1.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks in advance and keep'em coming.
I will make a tutorial for how to create this effect in After Effects - you should be able to create something like this on the HF10 - so long as you can have a high shutter speed you'll be fine.
I like your music lots :D I created a short tribute YouTube vid for a friend of mine a while back, using Make Out Magic.
Cheers
- HDV 60i = HVD 1080i30 (60i)
- HDV30p = HDV 1080p30
*now what about the HDV24p.? which do i use from the available presets.?
==since i heard if shooting in 24p it looks like cinematic or a movie gamma.
*and what is the meaning of deinterlace or pull down.?
** Great video you got, some stunning skills of knowledge you got there buddy. hope i don't give too much of a hard time here.
Arthur.
I have some doubts...
I used FinalCut, if I use a progresive video is necesary to apply a "PixelMotion" type plugin at FC?
Is possible to get this result with the Panasonic HVX200? can i put this shutter settings on it?
thanks a lot mate!
I believe there is a PixelMotion-type plugin within Apple Motion called "Optical Flow", or something similar to that.
Your HVX200 will produce better quality slow-motion than my XH-A1, because you can record progressive frames at either 50 or 60fps. If you record at 50-60fps, and then apply the "Optical Flow" or PixelMotion plugin to your footage, making it 50% realtime, then you will achieve very good slo-mo.
Hope that helps!
thanks again!